Twacking on a Large St. John's Day

Today is our last day here in wonderful St. John's Newfoundland. The trip has been great, the province spectacular and the people fully live up to or even exceed their reputation as being genuinely warm, friendly and helpful.

Most of the day is spent sightseeing and wandering the shops ("twacking"), on a beautiful sunny day ("large").

The view across the harbour entrance to the area know as the "battery"

One of the many comings and goings in the harbour.

Another colourful view across the harbour.

The Quidi Vidi brewery (pronounced kiddy-viddy), produces some fine malt beverages.
I've grown quite fond of their 1892, a traditional ale and Iceberg, a lighter crisper tasting beer made using water derived from icebergs. It's really unfortunate this beer will not be available in Ontario, any time soon.

The crew in front of the Lieutenant Governor's official residence.

Beautifully maintained gardens surround the mansion.

We stopped into the Presentation Convent to view The "Veiled Virgin", an incredible marble carving done by Giovanni Strazza. This photo may not do the carving justice. 
When viewed live, it appears there truly is a veil over the bust.

A colourful display. 

Is anyone familiar with Great Big Sea and Lukeys Boat ? Could this be the inspiration? Or is the song the inspiration for the boat name.

When we decided to do this tour, we weren't too sure what to expect. As it turns out, we could have set very high expectations and not been the least bit disappointed.

For anyone thinking of visiting this magnificent province, do it. It won't disappoint.

Thar She Blows !

Wow, what a day. We make our way from Port Blandford, south-east toward St. John's with a couple of stops along the way.  Our first diversion takes us through Wittless Bay to Bay Bulls for a look at some of the largest mammals on earth and some of the cutest, funniest birds on earth.

I don't think any of us were prepared for what was about to take place.

The kids are listening to the tour boat operator... 

...  and watching the picturesque landscape ...

...  from homes with a view ...

...  to rocks carved over eons ...

... when suddenly ...

... this happens ...  

...  three humpbacks ...

... putting on an incredible show ...

...  up close and personal ...

These shots are not zoomed in and in some cases it seemed they were almost close enough to touch. 

Some of their fin slaps actually got us wet.

I have dozens of shots like this. These beauties frolicked along side our tour boat for at least 20 minutes until it seemed after a final wave goodbye, they swam off. Perhaps they needed to rest before their next performance or maybe needing to find a school of capelin for lunch.  

Our next sight was incredible in a different way. Puffins nest in hillside burrows.

They are cute little guys but look incredibly awkward in flight, apparently needing to flap their wings up to 400 times per minute to avoid dropping to the sea like a stone. 

A cousin to the puffin are murres, seen here by the thousands on their rocky nesting grounds.
I have never seen so many birds in one place, anywhere, anytime. Advice to anyone who may take a similar tour....  wear a hat, an easily cleaned jacket and don't look up... 

Next stop was Signal Hill. Not only important for it's military significance, but also as the place Marconi received the first ever wireless trans atlantic radio transmission.  

The view from Signal Hill to Cape Spear which housed concrete bunkers and heavy artillery to protect the east coast during WWII. Cape Spear is also the most easterly point in North America.
(Post Trip Correction...  This shot is actually of Fort Amherst as seen from Signal Hill. Cape Spear is several miles south east of this location.)

The view from Cape Spear back toward Signal Hill

It was interesting to see how short a distance (relatively speaking), it is from Cape Spear to many destinations across the Atlantic.


We finished today off with a wonderful meal at Raymonds on Water Street in St. John's. It is said to be one of the best restaurants in Canada and it didn't disappoint.
Only one day left to see more of St. John's before heading home Friday.

Scenery, Colours, Silly Birds and Silly People

Today's travels take us to Cape Bonavista to enjoy the views from the lighthouse and to visit the Ryan Premises, a national historic site dedicated to the merchant side of Newfoundlands fisheries.

Views from the point of Cape Bonavista can include whales... 

...  and Puffins....  

...  not to mention some spectacular Seascapes.

For my fish guts friends ...
An explanation for lyric "Capelin corpses neatly laid on flakes of black spruce boughs". This photo depicts a "flake" made of black spruce boughs upon which salted cod was laid to dry before shipping. 

Bonavista is the stereotypical Newfoundland fishing village. Beautiful.

After lunch in Trinity", we head to the gift shop where Gary models his next winter hat.

Trinity provides some of those picturesque postcard shots

Note the Newfoundland/Labrador flag proudly flying in the centre of this shot

Lil often comments that we don't take enough people shots.

Another "nice people" shot...

Twillingate - A Fisherman's Tale

Today was another long day on the tour bus covering around 340 klm. The route took us from Gander north to Twillingate then back through Gander, south to Port Blandford where we will spend two nights.

The most interesting part of the day was without a doubt, Twillingate.

Our first stop today.

Cap'n Dave is a fisherman, like his father before him. He is also a wise man. Realizing the fishery may no longer provide for him and his family and seeing the potential in tourism, he set up shop on the outskirts of Twillingate and personally educates visitors on the life of a fisherman and his family in Newfoundland.

Dave's operation is less a tourist trap and more a lesson in the romance and lore of Newfoundland Cod Fishermen.

This "Sei Whale" skeleton is part of his display. Having found the carcass washed up on shore, he towed it to a remote island where he removed what he could of the decomposing flesh and left it for two years to allow nature to take it's course.  He then transported and reassembled it for display. 

Dave is also a poet of some local repute.
 But, this verse (his), shows that in his veins, runs the salty blood of a fisherman.

As I understand the story, a "Stage" is akin to a land claim, but it also marks the territory or waters of a fisherman, which is always respect by other fishermen. A stage includes a hut where the cleaning, splitting and salting stages of a cod operation took place.  This "Stage" belonged to Dave's father and after his dad's passing only a few years ago, Dave towed it to his own stage to become part of his display.

After leaving Cap'n Dave's, we head to the tip of the North Twillingate Island to experience more of this province's incredible natural beauty.

This smallish iceberg was washed against the shore of the north Twillingate island.
The colour display was spectacular.

If you look closely at this shot, along with the medium sized berg just behind us, there are at least two others off in the distance. From one higher vantage point on the north island we could see over 20 icebergs or remnants both near and further off in the distance.  

The Long and Winding Road

Nothing too exciting to report on today as most of the day was spent on the coach, covering the 375 klm of winding hilly road, from Rocky Harbour to Gander.

At least the weather cooperated which allowed us to enjoy the scenery along the way

We stop at Grand Falls-Windsor along the Exploits River to visit the Salmonid Interpretation Centre which has exhibits on the history, biology, ecology and habitat of the Atlantic Salmon. 

An Atlantic Salmon trying to make it's way up the ladder to spawn. The gate was opened shortly after this shot was taken, allowing the salmon to continue their upstream journey. One thing I learned about Atlantic Salmon is that they don't necessarily die after the spawn.
Apparently the majority return to the ocean to repeat the cycle

This was a particularly big jump for the salmon coming up river. I watched one beauty make a spectacular high leap, only to smash against the rocks and bounce back to the lower level.

Our accommodations are in Gander this night.
A quick stop at the airport reveal it is no longer the bustling Trans-Atlantic hub it once was.